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Paste Solder - Sweat soldering copper pipe is not difficult as long as you have the right tools for the job. This would include a pipe cutter, pipe cleaning tool, propane torch, safety goggles, gloves, fire extinguisher, and flame blocking material.
Be sure to purchase only lead free solder. Never use lead based solder on your water pipes. The lead could find it's way into the water supply, and even small amounts are harmful. Don't forget to purchase solder flux. You will need this in order to clean and etch the surfaces to be joined. |
Copper must be cleaned to remove surface contamination prior to soldering.
There are a number of ways to do this. You can use fine grit sandpaper, emory cloth, or a tool
designed for the purpose. Whatever method you choose, the mating surfaces of the parts to be
connected must be bright and shiny. Otherwise, solder will not bond
and you will end up with a leaking connection.
Here are the steps to a successful sweat solder job:
-
Measure, cut, and
dry-fit all parts. Be sure you have cut pipes to the correct length.
When fitted together, about 3/8 additional inch will be needed on each
side of an assembled joint to account for the connector.
-
Clean the mating
surfaces of parts to be joined - outside surface of pipe, inside
surface of connector. Use one of the cleaning methods mentioned
earlier, and don’t touch the parts with your fingers after cleaning.
This step must be done properly. Any contamination on the surfaces to
be joined will prevent the solder from bonding.
-
Apply a light coating
of flux to the outside mating surfaces of pipes and inside of
connectors. Be sure to get an even film all the way around. Use a
small flux brush for this task. The purpose of the flux is to remove
any unseen surface oxidation, etch the copper, and guard against
oxidation when the parts are heated.
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Cleaning Tile Grout - Cleaning ceramic tile grout can be a messy and difficult job. This is especially true if the grout has never been sealed. Stains from mold, food and beverages, and foot traffic can make your grout look old and dirty way before it's time. Start with something simple, like vinegar or baking soda. Dilute the vinegar with an equal amount of clean water. Baking soda is mixed with water to create a paste. Apply the homemade cleaner and scrub in small circles with a nylon brush. Rinse with water and dry with a sponge or paper towels. |
If your grout is still stained, the next thing to
try would be commercial tile and grout cleaners. These are
available where home cleaning products are sold. Start with a mild
cleaner instead of jumping right to a harsh one. To get the best result from
a commercial cleaner, spray it on and let it sit for a few minutes
before scrubbing. Follow the directions on the label to
clean effectively and prevent discoloration.
Tips for Grout Cleaning
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Sikkens Wood Stain - Wood stains are designed to impart a deep, rich color. When applied correctly, they also protect the wood from water damage. Unlike paint, which builds a color coat on the surface, stain will penetrate the surface when applied. The surface of wood will be partially visible and therefore requires careful preparation to minimize imperfections prior to application. |
The initial application of paint or wood stain is absorbed into the
substrate. Since stains contain low amounts of binder, the pigment
remains near the surface, while the binder penetrates to a deeper
level. On the other hand, paint has a high amount of binder, so the
pigment forms a layer on the surface. Wood stains range from very
low viscosity to extremely thick. The thicker stains are designed
primarily for exterior use. They penetrate better than paint, but
usually do not hide surface defects as well. Exterior stains tend to
be more flexible than paint and last longer. If you decide to use
stain, be aware that most cannot be painted over. So once a surface
has been stained, that’s most likely how it will have to stay for
life.
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Ceramic Tile Installation - Cleaning ceramic tile is pretty easy compared to other flooring types, but the grout is another story. Spills can easily stain unsealed grout and it can be very difficult to remove them. And stained grout will make the rest of the floor look dirty. |
The best long term solution to
keeping grout clean is to seal it. This will help prevent spills from
being absorbed into the grout, and cleanup is much easier.
You can purchase grout sealer online or at your
local home center. There are quite a few types available, so be sure
to read the labels before purchase. Silicone based sealer is applied
to the grout only. It provides a long life and is fairly easy to
clean. There are also finisher/sealer types that are applied to the
entire floor. There are different types that will enhance and
highlight both the tiles and the grout, or you can get a clear finish.
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Gas Generator - Purchasing a portable generator is not difficult if you know how to calculate power usage. There are 120 volt and 240 volt devices in your home or on the job site, and also constant flow vs startup surge devices. This article will help you select the size you need. |
Inductive load appliances and tools such as refrigerators, washers,
and power tools require additional wattage for starting. The initial
load only lasts for a few seconds, but is very important when
calculating your total wattage. For example - Running a 100 watt light
bulb, a 1,200 watt refrigerator with a start-up wattage of 3,000
watts, and a 400 watt TV, would require 3,500 watts.
| Appliance or Tool |
Running Wattage* |
Startup (Surge) Wattage* |
| 3/8″ hand drill |
500 |
750 |
| Jigsaw |
600 |
900 |
| 7 1/4″ circular saw |
1500 |
1900 |
| Portable heater |
1500 |
1800 |
| Belt sander |
1200 |
1700 |
| Furnace fan |
1100 |
2000 |
| Refrigerator / Freezer |
1200 |
3000 |
| Clothes washer |
1000 |
7500 |
| Light bulb |
75 |
0 |
| Television |
400 |
0 |
| Microwave |
750 |
0 |
| Toaster oven |
1500 |
0 |
| Water heater |
5000 |
0 |
| Coffeemaker |
1200 |
0 |
| * Wattage numbers are estimates. They will
vary based on the wattage rating of the tool or appliance being used. |
Electric Generator Safety Tips
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Fire Extinguisher Safety - There are four classes of fire extinguishers. Each one is designed for a specific type of fire. Modern fire extinguishers use a picture and labeling system to designate which types of fires they are designed for. Older units use colored geometrical shapes with letter designations.
Class A and B fire extinguishers have a numerical rating based on tests conducted by Underwriter’s Laboratories. These ratings determine the extinguishing potential for each size and type of extinguisher. |
Class A Extinguishers will put out fires in
ordinary combustibles such as wood and paper. The numerical rating
refers to the amount of water the fire extinguisher holds and the
amount of fire it is designed to extinguish.
Class B Extinguishers are used on fires involving
flammable liquids like grease, gasoline, oil, etc. The numerical
rating states the approximate number of square feet of a flammable
liquid fire that can be extinguished.
Class C Extinguishers are for use on electrical
fires. This class of fire extinguishers does not have a numerical
rating. The presence of the letter “C” indicates that the
extinguishing agent is non-conductive.
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Commercial Ceiling Tile - Installing ceiling tiles is a great way to change the look and feel of a room. And fortunately, it's not a difficult job. Knowing a few "tricks of the trade" will make things go a lot easier. |
Selecting the Tiles
Most ceiling tiles are made of fiberboard. Standard
tiles measure 12" by 12", although tiles are also made in 12" by 24"
and other sizes. Acoustical tiles are made from the same type of fiber
with an additional manufacturing process to help absorb sound in a
room. A well designed acoustical tile absorbs up to 70 percent of
excess noise.
Ask the supplier to help estimate the materials you
need for installation. Most manufacturers provide charts to determine
the number of tiles, the amount of furring, and the gallons of
adhesive needed (if adhesive is used) based on the room size. Tiles
are typically packed as follows: 12" by 12" ceiling tiles in cartons
of 40, 12" by 24" are packed 20 to a carton.
Ceiling Tile Installation Methods
The most common methods of ceiling tile application
are adhesives, stapled or nailed to wood furring strips, or a metal
grid suspended from the overhead floor joists. For ceilings made of
plaster, sheetrock, or other materials that provides a smooth,
continuous backing, use adhesives to apply the ceiling tiles. If the
ceiling has cracked plaster or other defects, apply furring strips and
nail or staple the tiles to the furring strips.
Basic Rules
-
All cut tiles should be used for the edges of the room
where the ceiling meets the walls.
-
Cut tiles at opposite ends of the room should be the
same size.
-
If at all possible, cut tiles should not be less than
half a tile wide.
Determine the Size of Border Tiles
Measure the distance from wall to wall on the longer
side of the room. If the length measures exact feet, you will not need
to cut border tiles for that direction. If the distance does not come
out in exact feet, add 12 to the number of inches remaining and divide
by two. This gives you the width of your border tiles. For example, if
the room is 10′ 6" long, add 12 to 6 (18) and divide 18 by 2. The
result of 9" is the width of the border tiles for each end of the run.
Do the same thing for the shorter side of the room. Confused? Here is
the result of the calculations:
-
10′ 6" = 126 total
inches of the run (10′ x 12" to the foot = 120") + 6" = 126"
-
6" + 12" = 18" (to make sure each end tile is at least
1/2 tile wide)
-
18" / 2 = 9"
-
9" on start of run + 9" on end of run = 18", so 126"
(total length of the run) - 18" = 108"
-
108" / 12" (size of standard ceiling tile) = 9 tiles
in middle of the run
-
9 tiles x 12" = 108" + 9" start of run + 9" end of
run = 126"
-
126" / 12" = 10′ 6"
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